We revel in the accomplished vinous variety that California now offers, but, despite widespread success with so many different grapes, when it comes to truly great red and white wines, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have not relinquished their places at the very top of the list of the state's most collectible offerings.

2018 and 2019 have both turned out to be exceptionally fine Cabernet vintages. The collection of new arrivals that head up this issue only adds to our growing enthusiasm for each, and the percentage of those earning multiple-star ratings is exceptionally high. Discerning Cabernet lovers have a veritable embarrassment of riches from which to choose.

We have always been both amused and a bit puzzled at the eulogies penned about California Chardonnay over the years, and, while a variety that is too often dismissed as being passé by those preoccupied by what's new, it is, in reality, still far and away the most in-demand white wine of them all. We think there are good reasons why.

While there is no question that top-shelf Pinot Noirs and Sparkling wines can be quite expensive, there are more than few beautifully made examples of both that remind that high quality is not limited to those bearing uncomfortably high price tags.