A very long list of new Pinot Noirs, more than one-hundred and thirty, heads up the latest edition of Connoisseurs' Guide, and, since one cannot nor should not subsist entirely on red wines alone, its two white relations, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc join in to complete an issue wholly devoted to the close-knit Pinot family.

It is hard to argue against the idea that Cabernet Sauvignon is still the king of California red wines, but, if it is, Pinot Noir is certainly challenging its throne and is beginning to suggest that it just might be the time to start thinking in terms of two very noble sovereigns.

The astonishing rise in the popularity of Pinot Gris labeled by its Italian name, Pinot Grigio, is one of the more-unexpected success stories of recent years, and, by whatever title it goes by, it looks very much like it is a variety here to stay.

The least commonly seen mutation of Pinot Noir, but one that can offer real interest, Pinot Blanc can, in the hands of capable makers, deliver a good deal to like and a little more richness than its close cousin, Pinot Gris.

Reliable as ever in offering outstanding value, Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc earn a place at the top of the Best Buy marquee in February, and a few recent favorites in priceworthy Merlots earn a second mention before they disappear from the market.