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Break Out The Bubbly

By Charles Olken

I will confess that the biggest celebrations Chez Olken not only involve bubbles, whose appearance is a regular occurrence in this household, but one special bottle that has been our go-to wine for more years than I care to count. And, since confession is good for the soul, even at a happy time like this, I will admit that the wine comes from Champagne and is too expensive for all but the finest occasions.

It is not that I have anything against the domestic product—as the reviews in the November Issue of Connoisseurs’ Guide will so completely and unabashedly point out. But, long before California sparkling got so good, we had become complete addicts to Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne Brut.

We do not drink as much of it as we used to—prices for Champagne being what they are these days, but we keep some around for occasions like tonight when the local baseball team does something extraordinary like winning the World Series.

I suppose in my hearts of hearts I do feel a twinge of guilt that I do not always drink California wines, but then, I also have a cellar full of Bordeaux and Burgundy, of German Riesling and Rhône Reds. And I never feel guilty about enjoying them. Go figure.

Still, when all of San Francisco has turned orange and black, and not just for Halloween, a bottle of the old family favorite was in order.

With apologies to J. Schram, Mumm DVX, J 2004 Late Disgorged, whose beauty earns them highest ratings and places in my cellar, I have happily celebrated with Perrier-Jouet. And if you are a Giants’ fan, I hope you celebrated with your favorite as well.


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