Volume 34, Issue 9: July 2010

PINOT NOIR     California may be flush with success as far as Pinot Noir is concerned, but the best bottlings are often limited in quantity and dear in price. The deep, impressively concentrated ** SUMMERLAND Vintner’s Select Santa Maria Valley 2007 ($35.00) finds a comfortable place near the head of the class and with the layered, persistently fruity 90-point * MOSSBACK Russian River Valley 2008 ($25.00) outperforms many Pinots costing a good deal more. Of special note, however, is the surprising number of good Pinots to be had for $20.00 and less, and the full and fleshy * CASTLEROCK Reserve Russian River Valley 2008 ($18.00) and the rounded, easy-to-taste * SEAN MINOR 4B Carneros 2008 ($17.00) are well worth seeking out. The widely available * ESTANCIA Pinnacles Ranches 2008 ($17.00) and the well-defined * IRONY Monterey County 2008 ($15.00) are exceptional values, and, if checking in just short of a *, the juicy, cherry-like HAHN ESTATES Monterey 2007 ($12.00) is an out-and-out bargain.

CHARDONNAY     There is no question but that the rich, keenly crafted ** MINER Napa Valley 2008 ($30.00) deserves a special place at the top of our list of Best Buys, but, as with Pinot Noir, we are pleased at the amount of tasty Chardonnay to be found below $20.00. The zesty, * BUENA VISTA Estate Carneros 2007 ($19.00) gets the nod for its fruity vigor, and keep an eye open for the sweetly fruited * ARTESA Carneros 2008 ($20.00), the appley * ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS Alexander Valley 2008 ($16.00) and the very well-focused * SUMMERLAND Santa Barbara County 2008 ($17.00). Finally, the CUPCAKE VINEYARDS Central Coast 2008 ($14.00) and the SEAN MINOR 4B Central Coast 2008 ($13.00) both score 86 points and are values worth noting.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON     New Cabernets await next month, but a handful of previously recommended wines warrant mention by dint of their outstanding value. The deep, generously filled * FUSE Napa Valley 2007 ($20.00) is quite simply as good a Cabernet as we have seen at the price in some time, and both the accessible * HAHN Central Coast 2007 ($14.00) and the comparatively polished * RODNEY STRONG Sonoma County 2007 ($19.00) hit all of the right marks to win enthusiastic Best Buy award. If not quite up to full * recommendation, the CYCLES GLADIATOR Central Coast 2007 ($12.00) and the FIVE RIVERS WINERY Central Coast 2007 ($11.00) are honest, thoroughly likeable Cabernets priced for everyday drinking.