California's unique contribution to the world's portfolio of compelling red wines and the state's most heralded white variety make for a most exciting tandem this month. Despite the fact that Zinfandel and local Chardonnay have occasionally has slings and arrows thrown their way by hard-to-please critics who are either unwilling or incapable of thinking outside the tradition-bound European box, their manifold achievements have earned them legions of happy followers, and we are second to none in our high regard for both.

Outside of its fanatic fan base, it is rarely if ever, accorded the kind of esteem that Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon routinely receive, but those in the know are aware of just how very good well-crafted Zinfandel can be, and this month's roster of eye-opening new offerings is certain to add to the ranks of its respectful admirers.

We enjoy wines of all kinds and, depending on mood, whim and what is for dinner, will pick from any number of varieties. We have, however, never been moved by the sermons of those who preach "anything but Chardonnay" and, save perhaps for Riesling, still view fine Chardonnay as the standard by which any of the world's truly great white wines must be measured.

Although the principle of supply and demand dictates that prices on high-achieving wines must necessarily rise, there are always worthy bottles that stand out as fine values, and, in this latest edition of Best Buys, we recommend attractive examples of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Petite Sirah that do just that.