A pair of Pinots, one red and one white, share the stage this month, and while Pinot Noir is now justifiably recognized as being responsible for many of the West Coast's most accomplished red wines, Pinot Gris is more quietly proving its mettle in making versatile, sometimes compelling and surprisingly characterful whites.

Among the thousands of wines annually tasted for Connoisseurs' Guide, Pinot Noir has, over the last several years, made more appearances at our table than any other. And, we are not complaining in the least as the number of highly recommended offering seems to increase with each new vintage.

We think it is time to afford Pinot Gris with new respect. Largely owing to well-made bottlings from our northern neighbors in Oregon, but increasingly in California as well, Pinot Gris is carving out a place as a serious, food-worthy white wine and not just one that excels as thirst-quenching partner to picnicky fare.

Good buys abound in very affordable Chardonnay these days, and Zinfandel continues to win top honors for its noteworthy value. June's roster of Best Buy favorites counts a considerable collection of each.